The bakery where Portugal's famous custard tarts originated. They have been handmade by a secret recipe since 1837 and served hot from the oven.

"The bakery where Portugal's famous custard tarts originated. They have been handmade by a secret rec"

Lisbon's thousand-year-old sailors' quarter tumbles from the castle down to the river. Its tangled lanes survived the 1755 earthquake and are full of old-world character.

"Lisbon's thousand-year-old sailors' quarter tumbles from the castle down to the river. Its tangled l"

A pre-earthquake tower that once protected Lisbon's harbor. It was the last sight departing explorers saw and now symbolizes Portugal's voyages of discovery.

"A pre-earthquake tower that once protected Lisbon's harbor. It was the last sight departing explorer"

A 16th-century high-town district built for shipworkers. In the evening it buzzes with restaurants, many serenading diners with fado music.

"A 16th-century high-town district built for shipworkers. In the evening it buzzes with restaurants, "

A royal retreat town about 15 miles from Lisbon. It is known for fabulous mansions, lush gardens and craggy hilltops with grand views.

"A royal retreat town about 15 miles from Lisbon. It is known for fabulous mansions, lush gardens and"

Prince Ferdinand's whimsical 19th-century hilltop palace mixes Gothic, Renaissance, Moorish and Manueline styles. Its interior is preserved as it was when the royal family fled in 1910.

"Prince Ferdinand's whimsical 19th-century hilltop palace mixes Gothic, Renaissance, Moorish and Manu"

Lisbon's renowned nostalgic tram route through the old city and other famous parts of Lisbon.

"Lisbon's renowned nostalgic tram route through the old city and other famous parts of Lisbon."

Lisbon's lower town was rebuilt after 1755 on Pombal's earthquake-proof grid plan, making it one of Europe's first planned city centers. It is known for uniform Pombaline buildings and black-and-white cobbled sidewalks.

"Lisbon's lower town was rebuilt after 1755 on Pombal's earthquake-proof grid plan, making it one of "

A hilltop castle first built by the Moors and later a royal palace. It is surrounded by a peaceful park with the city's best viewpoint.

"A hilltop castle first built by the Moors and later a royal palace. It is surrounded by a peaceful p"

An iron elevator built in 1902, inspired by the Eiffel Tower. It connects the lower town with the Bairro Alto.

"An iron elevator built in 1902, inspired by the Eiffel Tower. It connects the lower town with the Ba"

King Manuel's monastery, funded by spice taxes, holds Lisbon's most impressive church in the ornate Manueline style. It also contains Vasco da Gama's tomb and lacy cloisters Rick calls his favorite in Europe.

"King Manuel's monastery, funded by spice taxes, holds Lisbon's most impressive church in the ornate "

One of Lisbon's oldest markets, housed in an 1882 iron hall with an oriental dome. It combines a traditional fresh-produce market with the Time Out food hall of over 30 stalls and bars.

"One of Lisbon's oldest markets, housed in an 1882 iron hall with an oriental dome. It combines a tra"

A vast harborfront square on the site of the royal palace destroyed in the earthquake. It has a grand triumphal arch and statues recalling Lisbon's golden age and its recovery after the quake.

"A vast harborfront square on the site of the royal palace destroyed in the earthquake. It has a gran"

A waterfront district that survived the 1755 earthquake. It preserves Lisbon's great buildings from its Age of Discovery glory days.

"A waterfront district that survived the 1755 earthquake. It preserves Lisbon's great buildings from "

Thousand-year-old Moorish ramparts reached by a gentle hike through an enchanted forest. The castle was restored in modern times and is a castle lover's dream.

"Thousand-year-old Moorish ramparts reached by a gentle hike through an enchanted forest. The castle "

A tiny, historic ginjinha bar that opens at 7am and serves ginjinha, Portugal's traditional sour cherry liqueur. The cherries are soaked in aguardente and served in the glass.

"A tiny, historic ginjinha bar that opens at 7am and serves ginjinha, Portugal's traditional sour che"

A pastel de nata bakery that opened in 2016, with its flagship in the centre and an outpost by the water. Its tarts come warm from the oven with thin, crispy pastry and very gooey, caramelised custard.

"A pastel de nata bakery that opened in 2016, with its flagship in the centre and an outpost by the w"

Lisbon's grand Champs-Élysées-style avenue. Its wide sidewalks and many trees make it feel and function like a park.

"Lisbon's grand Champs-Élysées-style avenue. Its wide sidewalks and many trees make it feel and funct"

A historic funicular that climbs a hill too steep for trolleys, through a rough-and-tumble neighborhood full of small wine bars.

"A historic funicular that climbs a hill too steep for trolleys, through a rough-and-tumble neighborh"

A caravel-shaped monument built in 1960 for the 500th anniversary of Henry the Navigator's death. It features Henry, Vasco da Gama, Magellan and other explorers.

"A caravel-shaped monument built in 1960 for the 500th anniversary of Henry the Navigator's death. It"

Known as the 'King of Chickens', this is the place in Lisbon for spit-roast piri-piri chicken. It is served house-style with fries and salad, and the upstairs room is quieter.

"Known as the 'King of Chickens', this is the place in Lisbon for spit-roast piri-piri chicken. It is"

Central neighbourhood with a few hills and more local charm than Baixa, a convenient base despite some tourist traps.

"Central neighbourhood with a few hills and more local charm than Baixa, a convenient base despite so"

One of Lisbon's first farm-to-table restaurants, with a seasonal menu and natural, biodynamic wines. It mixes fine and rustic dining with dishes like beef tartare, sardine toast and mushroom ice cream.

"One of Lisbon's first farm-to-table restaurants, with a seasonal menu and natural, biodynamic wines."

Lisbon's iconic suspension bridge over the Tagus, best admired from the Belém waterfront or the MAAT rooftop.

"Lisbon's iconic suspension bridge over the Tagus, best admired from the Belém waterfront or the MAAT"

One of Europe's largest indoor aquariums, with over 16,000 animals and plants from 450 species across four habitats. Its huge central tank is visible through windows placed throughout the building.

"One of Europe's largest indoor aquariums, with over 16,000 animals and plants from 450 species acros"

One of Lisbon's main squares since the Middle Ages, known for its traditional calçada pavement, baroque fountains and neoclassical architecture.

"One of Lisbon's main squares since the Middle Ages, known for its traditional calçada pavement, baro"

Cash-only spot for traditional bifanas, thin-sliced pork sandwiches that cost only a couple of euros. Top them with sweet mustard and chili oil.

"Cash-only spot for traditional bifanas, thin-sliced pork sandwiches that cost only a couple of euros"

Lush park surrounding Pena Palace, with shaded paths, thousands of flowers, forests and small lakes. Walking down through it to Sintra town is recommended.

"Lush park surrounding Pena Palace, with shaded paths, thousands of flowers, forests and small lakes."

A no-frills, working-class seafood restaurant made famous by Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations, serving goose barnacles, giant tiger shrimp and live lobster. It is so popular it bought the restaurant next door to use as a waiting room.

"A no-frills, working-class seafood restaurant made famous by Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations, ser"

One of the few buildings to survive the 1755 earthquake. Its scarred pillars still recall the disaster.

"One of the few buildings to survive the 1755 earthquake. Its scarred pillars still recall the disast"

A grand old cafe that keeps its 1920s–30s ambience from the days when it fueled Lisbon's literary scene. It is still a good place for a coffee break.

"A grand old cafe that keeps its 1920s–30s ambience from the days when it fueled Lisbon's literary sc"

A naval museum showing how Portugal built its empire. Exhibits on caravels and navigation instruments explain the country's 15th–16th-century maritime dominance.

"A naval museum showing how Portugal built its empire. Exhibits on caravels and navigation instrument"

An ornate historic train station and the departure point for trains to Sintra.

"An ornate historic train station and the departure point for trains to Sintra."

A long-running pastry shop that had the first telephone line installed in Portugal. It is a good stop for a traditional Lisbon breakfast of espresso (bica) with pastries such as mini bolas de Berlim and pão de Deus.

"A long-running pastry shop that had the first telephone line installed in Portugal. It is a good sto"

A simple cafeteria made famous by Anthony Bourdain for its bifana, a garlicky, slow-cooked pork sandwich. It is served with yellow mustard and homemade piri-piri sauce.

"A simple cafeteria made famous by Anthony Bourdain for its bifana, a garlicky, slow-cooked pork sand"

An old-fashioned shop selling tea, coffee and chocolate, with a huge selection of port, including vintages dating back decades. The owner has worked there since he was 18. Visitors can try tawny port paired with almond chocolate.

"An old-fashioned shop selling tea, coffee and chocolate, with a huge selection of port, including vi"

A former fishing-supply shop turned canned-fish emporium. Visitors can order premium tinned sardines, mussels and more, served straight from the can with herbs and bread, or cooked into dishes from the menu.

"A former fishing-supply shop turned canned-fish emporium. Visitors can order premium tinned sardines"

A riverside promenade in Belém with fantastic views towards the 25 de Abril Bridge.

"A riverside promenade in Belém with fantastic views towards the 25 de Abril Bridge."

Lisbon's first funicular, inaugurated in 1884, climbing one of the city's steep hills.

"Lisbon's first funicular, inaugurated in 1884, climbing one of the city's steep hills."

A historic funicular famous for the colorful street art along its route.

"A historic funicular famous for the colorful street art along its route."

A modern public lift that helps visitors climb from downtown toward the castle.

"A modern public lift that helps visitors climb from downtown toward the castle."

A bohemian complex in an old textile factory, full of trendy bars, restaurants, quirky shops and independent art studios along cobblestone streets.

"A bohemian complex in an old textile factory, full of trendy bars, restaurants, quirky shops and ind"

A bookstore inside LX Factory, described as one of the most unique in the world.

"A bookstore inside LX Factory, described as one of the most unique in the world."

A 14th-century convent, once Lisbon's largest church, left roofless by the 1755 earthquake, with grand surviving arches. A small archaeological museum in the sacristy displays historic finds and shows an interactive video on the convent's history.

"A 14th-century convent, once Lisbon's largest church, left roofless by the 1755 earthquake, with gra"

Founded in 1884, the zoo is home to over 2,000 animals from 300 species, including dolphins, tigers and primates. A 20-minute cable car ride gives a view of the zoo from above.

"Founded in 1884, the zoo is home to over 2,000 animals from 300 species, including dolphins, tigers "

A striking riverside museum opened in 2016 that hosts temporary exhibitions by national and international artists and architects. Its rooftop offers great views of the 25 de Abril Bridge and the city.

"A striking riverside museum opened in 2016 that hosts temporary exhibitions by national and internat"

A former thermoelectric power plant next to MAAT, now a permanent exhibition venue.

"A former thermoelectric power plant next to MAAT, now a permanent exhibition venue."

The former Expo '98 site, home to the Oceanário, Torre Vasco da Gama and views of the Vasco da Gama Bridge.

"The former Expo '98 site, home to the Oceanário, Torre Vasco da Gama and views of the Vasco da Gama "

A majestic bridge across the Tagus, described in the video as the longest in Europe.

"A majestic bridge across the Tagus, described in the video as the longest in Europe."

A striking tower landmark in the Expo district.

"A striking tower landmark in the Expo district."

A cable car along the riverfront offering a nice view of the entire Expo district.

"A cable car along the riverfront offering a nice view of the entire Expo district."

A historic waterfront landing on the Tagus in front of Praça do Comércio.

"A historic waterfront landing on the Tagus in front of Praça do Comércio."

A historic riverside promenade next to Praça do Comércio.

"A historic riverside promenade next to Praça do Comércio."

A triumphal arch commemorating Lisbon's reconstruction after the 1755 earthquake. Visitors can climb it for spectacular views of the square and city.

"A triumphal arch commemorating Lisbon's reconstruction after the 1755 earthquake. Visitors can climb"

Lisbon's main pedestrian street, full of shops and restaurants, entered through the Rua Augusta Arch.

"Lisbon's main pedestrian street, full of shops and restaurants, entered through the Rua Augusta Arch"

A historic café on Rossio Square.

"A historic café on Rossio Square."

A Christ statue across the Tagus in Almada, resembling Rio de Janeiro's Christ the Redeemer. It is a quiet spot with breathtaking views of the river and Lisbon.

"A Christ statue across the Tagus in Almada, resembling Rio de Janeiro's Christ the Redeemer. It is a"

Upscale seaside town reached by train along the coast; sit on the left side for sea views. It deserves its own full day, with a historic town centre to explore.

"Upscale seaside town reached by train along the coast; sit on the left side for sea views. It deserv"

Dramatic, free seaside cliff spot a 15–20 minute walk from Cascais town, where the waves put on a show.

"Dramatic, free seaside cliff spot a 15–20 minute walk from Cascais town, where the waves put on a sh"

Cafe known for its spectacular views over the city. There is often a line out the door, but the views and food are worth the wait.

"Cafe known for its spectacular views over the city. There is often a line out the door, but the view"

Seafood restaurant on the docks outside the centre, serving fish caught fresh that day.

"Seafood restaurant on the docks outside the centre, serving fish caught fresh that day."

Riverside area just below Bairro Alto with a young party scene. It has good access to the rest of the city and few hills.

"Riverside area just below Bairro Alto with a young party scene. It has good access to the rest of th"

Affluent, chic, boho neighbourhood at the top of the hill that is well worth exploring.

"Affluent, chic, boho neighbourhood at the top of the hill that is well worth exploring."

A laid-back counter-service restaurant from chef Henrique Sá Pessoa that serves Spanish-Portuguese fusion tapas. The video features the bomba, cuttlefish tempura, bacalhau à Brás and slow-cooked octopus rice.

"A laid-back counter-service restaurant from chef Henrique Sá Pessoa that serves Spanish-Portuguese f"

Henrique Sá Pessoa's Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant, mentioned as the chef's flagship.

"Henrique Sá Pessoa's Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant, mentioned as the chef's flagship."

A small natural wine bar off the tourist track, run by Stephanie and Marc, a couple who moved from Montreal. It's a relaxed neighbourhood spot for a glass of natural wine.

"A small natural wine bar off the tourist track, run by Stephanie and Marc, a couple who moved from M"

A journalists' club since 1983 that doubles as a charming restaurant with a beautiful courtyard. Dishes include aubergine with miso caramel, shrimp and melon risotto, and a five-day pork neck.

"A journalists' club since 1983 that doubles as a charming restaurant with a beautiful courtyard. Dis"

A friendly brunch café run by Ben and Ricky that serves Turkish eggs, breakfast burritos and pulled-pork eggs Benedict. In the evening it also offers craft beer on tap, burgers and cocktails.

"A friendly brunch café run by Ben and Ricky that serves Turkish eggs, breakfast burritos and pulled-"

Chef José Avillez's large food complex in a converted 11,000-square-foot former artist's house, with four restaurants inside. In its Taberna the hosts ate garlic-chilli prawns, a steak sandwich in a muffin and a pastel de nata dessert, with house-made wine.

"Chef José Avillez's large food complex in a converted 11,000-square-foot former artist's house, with"

José Avillez's two-Michelin-star restaurant, mentioned in passing.

"José Avillez's two-Michelin-star restaurant, mentioned in passing."

A tiny, much-recommended tavern down a steep hill with a low doorway and only a few seats, serving Portuguese food. Dishes include octopus, cod tongues, pork cheek and passion fruit crème brûlée.

"A tiny, much-recommended tavern down a steep hill with a low doorway and only a few seats, serving P"

Described as an up-and-coming area a bit outside central Lisbon.

"Described as an up-and-coming area a bit outside central Lisbon."

A local Lisbon craft brewery whose beers, including a New England IPA, are drunk on the street in the summer heat.

"A local Lisbon craft brewery whose beers, including a New England IPA, are drunk on the street in th"

A popular pizza place whose sourdough starter is used for Tricky's bread.

"A popular pizza place whose sourdough starter is used for Tricky's bread."

A chef-favourite restaurant run by friends Jenny and Joel, mixing Vietnamese, French, Italian and Portuguese influences alongside natural wine. Highlights include red-wine-braised octopus, spinach pasta and beef tongue in fermented black bean sauce.

"A chef-favourite restaurant run by friends Jenny and Joel, mixing Vietnamese, French, Italian and Po"

Alfama viewpoint that is especially magical at sunrise, when the sky turns red to orange over the water. Arriving early also means you can enjoy it before the crowds.

"Alfama viewpoint that is especially magical at sunrise, when the sky turns red to orange over the wa"

Café near Miradouro de Santa Luzia, recommended for breakfast. Try a tosta mista with fresh orange juice and coffee for about $10.

"Café near Miradouro de Santa Luzia, recommended for breakfast. Try a tosta mista with fresh orange j"

The National Tile Museum is set in a former convent and traces the history of Portuguese azulejos, highlighted by a panoramic tile painting of Lisbon. It also has a beautiful courtyard and café, and entry is about $5.

"The National Tile Museum is set in a former convent and traces the history of Portuguese azulejos, h"

Alfama street where Fado music often drifts through the air.

"Alfama street where Fado music often drifts through the air."

Charming restaurant in a former chapel decorated with azulejo tiles, recommended for clams Bulhão Pato and Bacalhau à Brás. Reservations are advised, especially on weekends.

"Charming restaurant in a former chapel decorated with azulejo tiles, recommended for clams Bulhão Pa"

One of Lisbon's oldest convents, set on one of the city's highest hills. It is free to enter and takes about 30 minutes to explore.

"One of Lisbon's oldest convents, set on one of the city's highest hills. It is free to enter and tak"

Viewpoint in front of the Convento da Graça with panoramic views of Lisbon and the Tagus River.

"Viewpoint in front of the Convento da Graça with panoramic views of Lisbon and the Tagus River."

Monastery known for stunning tilework and rooftop and tower views that rival any miradouro. Tickets cost about $5.50, and it is best visited late in the day before the 6 PM closing.

"Monastery known for stunning tilework and rooftop and tower views that rival any miradouro. Tickets "

Terraced viewpoint in the heart of Alfama, recommended at sunset. It gets crowded, but with patience you can find a table with a view.

"Terraced viewpoint in the heart of Alfama, recommended at sunset. It gets crowded, but with patience"

Kiosk at the Portas do Sol viewpoint selling glasses of vinho verde for about $5, a good spot for sunset.

"Kiosk at the Portas do Sol viewpoint selling glasses of vinho verde for about $5, a good spot for su"

Popular pan-Asian restaurant loved for its bao buns, especially the seabass bao, plus starter platters and noodles at around $20-30 per person. It takes no reservations, so arrive 20-30 minutes before opening.

"Popular pan-Asian restaurant loved for its bao buns, especially the seabass bao, plus starter platte"

Bakery the hosts rated as having the best pastel de nata they've had. Its breakfast combo of a ham and cheese croissant, a pastel de nata and a latte costs about $4.

"Bakery the hosts rated as having the best pastel de nata they've had. Its breakfast combo of a ham a"

Belém Palace is one of the neighbourhood's iconic landmarks, best visited early in the morning before the cruise crowds arrive.

"Belém Palace is one of the neighbourhood's iconic landmarks, best visited early in the morning befor"

Modern restaurant and event venue near Belém with an unbeatable Tagus River view from its patio. It suits a treat-yourself meal of dishes like oxtail ragù and seafood pasta, at about $50-70 per person.

"Modern restaurant and event venue near Belém with an unbeatable Tagus River view from its patio. It "

Cozy spot in central Sintra near the Moorish Castle, serving sardine paté, Bacalhau à Brás and Queijada de Sintra. Expect about $30 per person.

"Cozy spot in central Sintra near the Moorish Castle, serving sardine paté, Bacalhau à Brás and Queij"

Small ceviche restaurant serving fresh ceviches and seafood dishes under a giant octopus hanging from the ceiling, at about $25-35 per person. It takes no dinner reservations, so arrive before opening.

"Small ceviche restaurant serving fresh ceviches and seafood dishes under a giant octopus hanging fro"

A historic cafe and restaurant dating back to 1782, said to be the oldest cafe in Lisbon. It has an outdoor patio under the arches with a view of the square, and locals say it still serves the best pastéis de bacalhau (cod cutlets).

"A historic cafe and restaurant dating back to 1782, said to be the oldest cafe in Lisbon. It has an "

A Portuguese restaurant that was the top place Mark wanted to try in Lisbon, but it was unexpectedly closed when he arrived.

"A Portuguese restaurant that was the top place Mark wanted to try in Lisbon, but it was unexpectedly"

A colourful Mozambican restaurant with Indian and Portuguese influences, tucked up a flight of steps in a quiet stairway cul-de-sac. It is known for exceptional beef samosas, tender lamb rib curry with coconut rice and an award-winning chili sauce.

"A colourful Mozambican restaurant with Indian and Portuguese influences, tucked up a flight of steps"

A large, legendary and fairly expensive restaurant famous for high-end seafood from its lobster tank and for hand-sliced cured ham. Highlights included the ham and cheese starters, extremely tender grilled octopus with garlic, and grilled sea bream.

"A large, legendary and fairly expensive restaurant famous for high-end seafood from its lobster tank"

A late-1800s estate designed mainly by Italian architect Luigi Manini, with a romantic palace, a chapel and lush gardens containing the famous Initiation Well, grottos and towers. It is less touristy and quieter in the morning, and exploring it takes a few hours.

"A late-1800s estate designed mainly by Italian architect Luigi Manini, with a romantic palace, a cha"

A palace in Sintra's town centre, seen along the walk from the train station to Quinta da Regaleira.

"A palace in Sintra's town centre, seen along the walk from the train station to Quinta da Regaleira."

One of Lisbon's old traditional neighbourhoods, mentioned as an area affected by gentrification and Airbnb conversions.

"One of Lisbon's old traditional neighbourhoods, mentioned as an area affected by gentrification and "

A neighbourhood market with local food stands selling homemade jams and dried fruit, plus good lunch options. It is a nice place to recharge on a hot day.

"A neighbourhood market with local food stands selling homemade jams and dried fruit, plus good lunch"

A local favourite in a touristy area, packed with locals and known for charcoal-roasted chicken served with house peri peri sauce in a distinctive jar. The host calls it a hidden gem with exceptionally tender chicken served with rice.

"A local favourite in a touristy area, packed with locals and known for charcoal-roasted chicken serv"

Said to be the oldest ginjinha shop in Lisbon, this hole-in-the-wall sells only shots of house-made cherry liqueur poured from a bottle refilled from the wall. Its ginjinha is smoother and sweeter than the one across the street, and it stays popular with locals.

"Said to be the oldest ginjinha shop in Lisbon, this hole-in-the-wall sells only shots of house-made "